The owner of a multi-award-winning restaurant in Marlow has publicly spoken out about why his establishment recently failed a hygiene inspection.

The Oarsman on Spittal Street, which was named as one of the top 100 restaurants in 2026, received a score of 2/5 after an assessment on November 19.

The restaurant has been regarded as one of the best pubs in the country due to its high-quality food, friendly service, and extensive menu.

READ MORE: Award-winning Buckinghamshire restaurant handed two-out-of-five food hygiene score

However, after Buckinghamshire Council visited the venue at the back end of last year, they explained that the Oarsman’s structural compliance needed ‘necessary improvement’.

Its hygiene and confidence in management were described as ‘generally satisfactory.’

Owner James McLean has now told the Free Press that the low score was due to a water pump issue which occurred on the same day the inspection took place.

The assessments are not booked in advance, as they are done randomly.

He explained: “On the morning of the day we had the inspection, the pump to the boiler broke down.

“It was unexpected, so we immediately ordered a new pump.

“However, the EHO [Environmental Health Officer] came in and carried out an inspection that morning.

READ MORE: We tried a very special Sunday roast at The Oarsman and it's a must

“Obviously, they need to let us know that we need hot water pumped around the building, and by the following day, a new pump had been ordered and installed, and hot water was flowing.

“The issue with the water pump was resolved.

“We were disappointed [to get the 2/5 score] but understood that the EHO inspects from the moment they are there, and unfortunately, as the pump had broken that morning, they inspected what was in front of them.

“He came back two days later and saw that the water was working, but we have to wait for a reinspection.

“That is part of the process.”

No reinspection has taken place at the time of writing.

READ MORE: ‘Newcomer of the Year’: Bucks pub picks up specialist award

In 2023, the Oarsman was named the ‘Newcomer of the Year’ at the Estrella Damm Top 50 Gastropubs ceremony.

That same year, it was named the best in South East England in the National Pub & Bar awards.

And in January of this year, the venue was ranked 99th out of 100 in a recent list of ‘must-try’ restaurants in the country.

Despite this, the owner has revealed that the Oarsman will have to pay an additional £2,000 a month in business rates, which will increase from £32,500 to £84,500 over the next two years.

On the Marlow public, and how people need to support local businesses, Mr McLean added: “Small independents are slightly more challenged as they don’t always have the financial backing of bigger groups.

“But the reason to come to the Oarsman is that we have a great bunch of young people working for us, who want to look after you, give you a great experience and fantastic chef in the kitchen, great food and a great team, and we want to give you a warm welcome.

“We want people to come out and enjoy our industry as a whole.”

On Google, the restaurant has a score of 4.3/5 from 453 reviews.

One reads: "We had a delicious New Year's lunch here.

"The food has always been outstanding.

"I had the pork chop today, and it was probably the best pork I have ever eaten. Beautiful cocktails. Great service.

"One of the standout restaurants in Marlow at the moment.

"Would definitely recommend."